SUMMER in Scotland brings with it a celebration of fantastic berries, which are coming into season this month and can be enjoyed right through until September. Hot on the heels of strawberries will come raspberries, appearing next month.
Scotland produces some of the best raspberries in the world, and I always try to make the most of these temptingly sweet, ripe berries during their short-lived season. Then, as August approaches, there will be blueberries and blackberries (or bra mbles). Because we don't suffer as severe frosts as we used to in Scotland, berries are arriving later, but they're worth the wait, and by mid July they are all in their prime and create a wonderful medley.
I feel really lucky to have all this delicious fruit on my doorstep. I source most of my berries from Blairgowrie in Perthshire. Father-and-son team Bill and Geoffrey Bruce have been producing berries on their farm for generations and all the fruit is hand-picked and packed right there.
The company has become one of the most respected producers of top-quality soft fruit in Scotland. Suppliers like the Bruce family inspire me – they boast such a wealth of knowledge passed down from generation to generation and they truly know their produce.
Berries rely on the right conditions to grow, in a similar way that vineyards rely on the right weather conditions to produce the best grapes. The unique balance of the rain and the fertility of the soil around Perthshire offer an ideal climate.
When I can, I like to visit the farm and try my hand at berry-picking. It can be a really relaxing, therapeutic family day out. It's also rewarding knowing you can enjoy the sweet fruits of your labour afterwards – although I've always been known to sample a few too many while I work.
Berry-picking brings back memories of my very first summer job on a farm close to my parents' house in Perthshire. My childhood friend Oliver and I came up with the idea of filling the punnets with small stones, before putting strawberries over them, but we were soon caught out – and sacked. To this day, Oliver still takes great amusement in bringing this incident up.
My pastry chef, Sebastian Kobelt, shares my excitement when the first summer berries arrive as it means he gets to create lots of fresh summer desserts. One of the favourites in the restaurant at the moment is our strawberry and crowdie – strawberries from Geoffrey Bruce served with a strawberry crumble and organic Highland crowdie cheesecake mousse – a real taste of Scottish summer.
This dish proves that summer berries can be used for all manner of recipes – you shouldn't be afraid to add them to different dishes. Try them with a simple meringue dessert, make your own fresh fruit salads for picnics or make some summer staples like jam or fruit coulis.
Having said that, berry desserts always prove a hit. They just taste of sunshine. A classic recipe – gratin of red fruits in white wine sabayon – is quick and easy to try. You can also substitute the berries for different fruits depending on the season. Remember to add a little extra sugar if the berries taste slightly sour. Fresh berries are best, but frozen are a great option too, and mean you always have some to hand to add a taste of summer to any dish.
If you're picking berries, look for plump, shiny, tender fruit, with a good, bright colour and a sweet aroma. If you're buying a punnet, check the underside isn't stained – that means the lower level of berries has been crushed. When it comes to strawberries, large ones tend to have higher water content, so are less flavourful – go for small to medium-sized ones.
Berries become mushy quite quickly on contact with water, so wash very briefly, and you should never wash before refrigerating them. Always try to eat berries within a couple of days of buying or picking them. And rather than waste older fruit, add them to smoothies, jams or coulis.
Summer berries are also a great way to encourage children to eat fruit – they're sweet, colourful and juicy and much better than resorting to other sweet treats. These desserts I'm sharing also make impressive finales to any dinner party.