The traditional baked rice pudding is simply short grain rice, milk and sugar baked in a low oven until thick and creamy. Those who find solace in its nannying quality will no doubt have an opinion on its every detail.

Some like their pudding to have a soupy consistency, with more milk than rice; others a pudding so thick you can stand a spoon up in it.Nothing polarises takers quite like the skin.

While some insist it is the best bit, many regard it as the devil himself. Even its darkness gets obsessed over. My father insisted it be blackened all over and puffed up like a beret.

THE RECIPE We probably took rice pudding from the Arab world, despite the fact that it originated in Asia, where it was initially used medicinally.

The Romans made it with goat's milk. Any gilding of the lily will depend on where in the world it is eaten. Indian cooks favour cardamom or nuts, Egyptians rosewater and mastic, whereas cinnamon appears everywhere from Mexico to Iceland. In Germany it's eaten with dried cherries.

The most straightforward method involves putting 100g of pudding rice, 35g of golden caster sugar and a knob of butter in a shallow dish, pouring over 900ml of milk, tucking in a vanilla pod with a grating of nutmeg. It is then baked for 2 hours at 150C/gas mark 3.

THE MAGIC
Short grain rice is thought essential, and though long will work, it rarely allows your pudding to thicken properly. A creamy result is best obtained with full-cream milk and a good stirring twice during its 2 hours in the oven.

A slow oven is the most popular method of cooking, but you can also simmer your milk and rice over a low heat, stirring in cream or butter at the end. While the Victorians knew the recipe thickened with eggs, sharpened with lemon and spiced with nutmeg, and my family included a bay leaf or a clove or two, I feel a pod of vanilla adds enough luxury. Nutmeg is still considered obligatory by most.

THE TWIST
I have borrowed from the Middle East for my own versions with pistachios and rosewater. Clotted cream will increase the richness; brown sugar ensures a toffee-like sweetness; toasted almonds offer a contrast of texture. My current favourite addition is grated apple and maple syrup.